Always summer, never warm.
This is the mantra painted in the Coast Guard's
Polar Sea Icebreaker. While enjoying warm summers up north I've chosen a second chilly summer in McMurdo Station, Antarctica.

Monday, November 26, 2007

melting permafrost

It's the time of year when the sun's power becomes overwhelming our Antarctica island, and the ground begins to thaw, and refreeze, and then thaw some more. Ross Island consists of three volcanic peaks; Mount Byrd (out of sight, out of mind), Mount Terror (visible from Scott Base), and the ever-present Mount Erebus (the most active, continually steaming, and occasional lava-bomb-shooting peak). While the island is host to a few glaciers and good deal of snow pack, the summer months, the radiant solar heat produces a good deal of snow melt; even though the temperatures have not warmed up to the freezing mark.

On my way to my dorm the other day, I took note of the dirt and ash on the ground. It is wet right now; which is a relief, as the dust becomes excessive and a nuisance in January. Wet also means it is not frozen on the top any longer. But, not too far under the surfaces is a lot of permafrost-laden ground.

At night, even though we are experiencing 24 hours of daylight, it still cools off. Right now, it is still chilling out enough to freeze the streams and puddles that form during the day. Sometimes we see fun ice formations; but most of the time, I think people overlook what is happening right under their feet.

Tonight I was walking out of my building and came across a ice coated puddle. Normally, I like to see things untouched; in their pure form here. But, like a 9 year old, bent on testing the waters, I tested my weight to the flimsy skim of ice. It didn't take much to crack through the puddle and watch dirty water seep through the fissures I created. I continued to break the little puddles all the way up to my work center. Sometimes it crashes through. Other times, it's a bit like stepping on a Christmas ornament and hearing a thousand tinkling glassy sounds under my feet!

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